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Why Microneedling is Your Must-Have Autumn Treatment

With the autumn months ahead, let’s focus on an ever-popular skin rejuvenation treatment that is best performed during the cooler months: microneedling. If slowing down the natural ageing process or treating various epidermal skin concerns such as skin texture, tone, and pigmentation is what you are looking for, microneedling can be an excellent way to address these concerns.

History

Although microneedling began centuries ago with the practice of acupuncture for therapeutic benefit and healing, cosmetically, microneedling has been around for about 30 years, since Dr Desmond Fernandes, a renowned South African plastic surgeon, first introduced it. Dr Fernandes originally focused on scar reduction, pioneering the concept of using fine needles to create micro-injuries in the skin. He provided us with the foundation of what is now a globally recognised cosmetic procedure with applications for scar tissue remodelling, collagen induction for the treatment of fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, melasma, enlarged pore size, rough-textured skin, and hair loss.

Microneedling has come a long way over the past 3 decades. Despite not being one of the latest technologies in skin rejuvenation, when carried out correctly, it has clinically proven efficacy while remaining a non-invasive procedure. Microneedling techniques can be adapted for different concerns and can produce excellent client outcomes with minimal downtime.

Not All Microneedling is Equal

Microneedling is a professional treatment that is performed in many beauty salons and skin clinics. Devices used, training, accompanying products, and protocols vary greatly. A salon could operate with a cheap device purchased from Amazon with low-quality needle cartridges or use the latest microneedling device with high-quality licensed products and bespoke protocols. This is one reason you may notice a wide variation in the cost of treatments. If the price sounds too good to be true, it likely is!

Home treatments are available for almost everything these days, but caution is advised. From hygiene concerns to protocols suggesting the use of a needling device 

three times a week, microneedling shouldn’t be taken lightly or assumed to be harmless if not performed correctly. To ensure the best results, I recommend working with a professional, preparing your skin before microneedling, and following all aftercare advice.

Popularity

Today, microneedling continues to gain popularity for its impressive ability to rejuvenate the skin. Another leading expert in the field, Dr Lance Setterfield, has extensively documented the benefits of microneedling, making his insights invaluable for anyone considering this treatment.

The Science Behind Microneedling

Microneedling works by stimulating the body’s natural healing processes. When the skin is needled, thousands of tiny microchannels are made in its surface. These controlled punctures, though too small to see, begin the process of wound healing. Wound healing starts with inflammation (in the case of microneedling, it is controlled) and ultimately leads to the production of collagen and elastin, two essential proteins for maintaining healthy and youthful skin. Dr Setterfield highlights that this increase in collagen and elastin not only improves skin texture and firmness but also reduces the appearance of scars, fine lines, and hyperpigmentation.

Corneotherapy & Microneedling - Improving Skin Quality

A healthy skin barrier means healthy skin!

Corneotherapists always consider whether a treatment is beneficial or harmful to the skin barrier. A healthy skin barrier can even slow skin ageing, as it plays a crucial role in the health of the skin below the surface. Below the skin barrier (stratum corneum) lies the stratum spinosum layer, responsible for producing keratin, which gives the skin its strength and resilience. As a result of needling, skin cell proliferation within the spinosum layer is stimulated. Overall, the regenerative capacity of the spinosum is enhanced, which improves the skin's resilience and quality. Skin gets thinner as we age, and microneedling can help improve the skin's epidermal structure and strength.

Benefits of Microneedling

1. Improved Skin Texture and Tone: Microneedling promotes a smoother, more even skin texture by encouraging the growth of new skin cells. This process can significantly reduce the appearance of acne scars, enlarged pores, and stretch marks.
2. Reduction of Fine Lines and Wrinkles: By stimulating collagen and elastin production, microneedling helps plump the skin, reducing the visibility of fine lines and wrinkles. This makes it an excellent anti-ageing treatment.
3. Enhanced Absorption of Skincare Products: The micro-channels created during the procedure allow for deeper penetration of topical treatments, making serums and creams more effective.
4. Minimised Hyperpigmentation: Microneedling can break up clusters of melanin in the skin, which helps to diminish dark spots and even out skin tone. This is particularly beneficial for those with sun damage or melasma.

Collagen Maturation

New collagen fibres produced as a result of microneedling go through a process of maturation, where they strengthen. This is why the true benefits of microneedling accumulate over time and become gradually noticeable up to and over 12 months after a course of treatments is completed. Skin tone, texture, luminosity, and quality are all expected improvements of microneedling treatments.

As a rule of thumb, the younger you are, the fewer treatments you will need. A course of three treatments may be sufficient in your 20s.

At What Age Can I Start Microneedling?

20s & 30s

Collagen levels within the skin start to decline from the age of 25. Microneedling offers an effective, non-invasive protocol to stimulate new collagen and elastin, replacing that which is naturally lost. Unlike Botox, microneedling offers overall rejuvenation and increased skin health, rather than targeting a specific area, line, or wrinkle. With microneedling, the effects continue to be seen over many months as the new collagen matures and strengthens, compared to Botox, where the effects begin to wear off. I would recommend microneedling as an excellent anti-ageing treatment choice from the age of 25 upwards.

Pre-menopausal Years

Microneedling is a good choice to help counteract the ageing process of the skin. At this stage, collagen levels are slowly declining. However, other factors play a significant role, including lifestyle, skincare, health, and whether you protect your skin daily with sunscreen.

Perimenopause & Menopause

Hormonal changes challenge the skin in new ways during the menopausal years. Natural collagen levels decrease by 30% in the first five years after menopause. After this, the loss slows but continues at a rate of 1-2% a year, meaning that skin tone and texture are no longer as firm and smooth as before. Pigmentation marks can start to appear and become increasingly visible. Microneedling can effectively address these concerns.

Post-menopausal

Treating post-menopausal skin may mean that not all signs of ageing can be significantly improved. However, microneedling still induces new collagen and elastin, producing beneficial skin improvements, enhancing pigmentation and texture, and helping with lines and wrinkles. A longer period of skin preparation may be required, and more treatments over a longer period may be advised. Each skin is unique, which is why a consultation is essential to ensure microneedling is the most suitable treatment for anyone undergoing a course of treatments.

Why Autumn and Winter are Ideal for Microneedling in the UK

While microneedling can be performed year-round, there are compelling reasons to schedule your treatments during the autumn and winter months:

1. Reduced Sun Exposure: Post-microneedling, your skin is more sensitive to UV rays, which can exacerbate hyperpigmentation. During the cooler months, the sun is less intense, and fewer daylight hours reduce the risk of sun damage, allowing for better healing.
2. Faster Recovery: Cooler weather can help minimise post-treatment inflammation and redness. The lower temperatures and reduced humidity levels create a more comfortable recovery environment for your skin.
3. Preparation for Spring and Summer: Undergoing microneedling treatments in the autumn and winter prepares your skin to look its best for the warmer months. By addressing skin concerns during this period, you can enjoy clearer, more radiant skin in spring and summer.
4. Hyperpigmentation Control: Dr Setterfield notes that treating hyperpigmentation during the cooler months is particularly effective. Reduced sun exposure means a lower risk of triggering further pigmentation issues, allowing treatments to work more efficiently and with less risk of complications.

Frequently Asked Questions

Contraindications

Microneedling is suitable for most people, but those with heart disease, thyroid problems, immune deficiency diseases, diabetes, or pregnancy should avoid it. Some medications can be incompatible, and any allergy to stainless steel is also a contraindication.

Does it hurt?

Probably less than you may think. Everyone feels pain and discomfort differently, but many of my clients don't find their treatments too uncomfortable. Certain parts of the face can be more sensitive than others, and targeting specific areas, such as lines or stretch marks, can be more uncomfortable.

I do not apply or ask my clients to use numbing cream beforehand, as numbing cream can inhibit the inflammatory response, which is essential to producing new collagen.

How many treatments do I need?

This depends on the age and concern to be treated.

Some salons offer a single microneedling treatment, but this is unlikely to be effective for long-term benefits.

A minimum of three to four treatments is usually sufficient for clients in their 20s and 30s. For those over 40, a standard skin rejuvenation protocol is a course of six treatments.

Scar tissue, stretch marks, acne scarring, and hair loss all require longer courses of treatment.

Cost

Currently, a course of three treatments costs £480. Each treatment includes skin preparation, bespoke needling to target specific concerns, and post-treatment phototherapy to accelerate skin healing. A range of treatment-enhancing products is available to prepare and enhance treatment results.

Conclusion

Microneedling offers a multitude of benefits, from reducing signs of ageing to improving skin texture and tone. According to Dr Lance Setterfield, the cooler months of autumn and winter provide the optimal conditions for achieving the best results with microneedling, particularly for managing hyperpigmentation. If you're considering enhancing your skincare routine, now might be the perfect time to explore the transformative effects of microneedling.

Rejuvenate Your Skin This Autumn

If you are interested in improving the appearance of your skin, microneedling may be an ideal option for you. To find out more, book your microneedling consultation here.

For overall skin health and to discuss microneedling, book your Consultation & Skin Assessment here.